Longines, the Swiss watch brand from the Swatch Group has been offering refurbished pre-owned Longines watches in its Collector's Corner in the Geneva boutique since spring 2021 as part of its Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme.

The Longines watch is supremely elegant, it is not for no reason is the claim "Elegance is an attitude". Its classic elegance was appreciated by pioneers such as Amelia Earhart, Amy Johnson and Howard Hughes, who made historic first flights such as the Atlantic and Pacific crossings; it was also worn by Clyde Pangborn and Hugh Herndon Jr, the two men who made the first non-stop flight across the Pacific. As a navigational instrument, it was used by polar explorers such as Richard Byrd and Paul-Emile Victor, and by ocean explorers Auguste and Jacques Piccard. Even Albert Einstein preferred a classic Longines model and it was also worn by film stars such as Walt Disney, Jack Warner, Humphrey Bogart, Yves Montand and even pop star David Bowie. Longines was also the first watch brand to build a GMT. The watch novelty at present is the Longines Spirit Zulu Time. The connection between past and present can be seen in its predecessor models, which are in the Collector's Corner in Geneva. Thanks to a company archive dating back to 1867, Longines' own Atelier Heritage is able to check the authenticity, repair and revise any Longines. Longines thus sees itself as a complement to auction houses and offers the watches at fixed prices.

What is behind Longines' commitment to second-hand? Second-hand luxury items are now an entrenched trend. McKinsey estimates that the second-hand market will be worth USD 60 billion by 2025, and the market for pre-owned luxury watches in particular will be worth USD 30 billion. The relevance was also confirmed by Kering's investment in Vestiaire Collective in March 2021, as well as Gucci's collaboration with TheRealReal to recycle/refurbish garments. Resale has the potential to change the future of fashion - how are luxury watch brands embracing the resale trend? Could it mean that brands could reduce the production of their pieces at a certain point? Does the commitment to vintage also affect customer loyalty and brand desirability?

 April 25, 2022

Interview Directory 

FASHION

Name: Daniel Hug

Occupation: Head of Branding & Heritage, Longines Watch Co. Francillon Ltd.

"With the Collector's Corner, we bring our history to life. Every vintage Longines has its own history, has aged in its own way and therefore has an individual imprint."

Can you explain your Certified Pre-Owned (CPO) programme for the Collector's Corner? 

For the first time, we have set up a Collector's Corner in our boutique in Geneva to present a small, carefully curated selection of vintage Longines watches. Unlike the watches in our museum, these models can actually be purchased. The icons from our history have previously been thoroughly revised by our watchmakers at Atelier Heritage and are each accompanied by a certificate of authenticity documenting the history of the timepiece. All the watches on display in the Collector's Corner tick Longines' own movements. We offer a two-year guarantee on vintage Longines watches. 

What is the message behind the Collector's Corner for the brand and what is its strategic importance?

With the Collector's Corner, we bring our history to life. Every vintage Longines has its own history, has aged in its own way and therefore has an individual imprint. With a Longines from the Collector's Corner, you acquire a unique piece that exists only once in this form. Moreover, it is probably the most sustainable way to buy a watch: No resources are wasted at all; instead, it is human craftsmanship that gives the watches a second or third life. Thanks to an enormous stock of spare parts and components, our Atelier Heritage is able to repair and overhaul any Longines - even if it is over 100 years old. In this way, we also prove that a Longines with a mechanical movement is an extremely durable product that retains its value. If necessary, our watches can always be repaired. 

How can you get your watch models back; are there historical archives?

We are in the fortunate position of having a complete archive of every Longines watch made, going back to 1867. Since that year, every Longines timepiece has its individual serial number, and this allows us to trace the history of every Longines. These entries are particularly useful for detecting fakes or incorrect pairings of cases and dials. The sources of the watches vary. Sometimes we still own several examples of a model ourselves, sometimes we find flawless and interesting Longines watches from collectors, customers or auction houses.

© Longines

Do you compete with auction houses?

Not really, we see ourselves more as a kind of complement. We work closely with the leading auction houses because they are often looking for documents and data on the Longines watches they offer. We also don't sell the watches at auction, but offer them at fixed prices. Moreover, our Atelier Heritage is the only place that can document the authenticity of a timepiece thanks to our archives. Only our watchmakers are in a position to carry out extensive revisions on the watches, because they are often the only ones who still have the original spare parts.

Can such a Collector's Corner also be a message of appreciation and longevity, against excessive consumption?

Exactly. Thanks to their quality, vintage Longines watches are the best testimony that our products are much more durable than the vast majority of consumer goods. This refers not only to the quality of the movements and cases, but also to the design: many Longines watches impress with their timeless, purist design. This is also an important quality feature of a wristwatch. The revision of a watch that is, for example, fifty years old is also more sustainable than any conceivable use of recycled materials in new watches.

How do you market Longines now that your CEO has announced that the Swatch Group is no longer going as global fairs?

The global fairs no longer meet our needs. We launch a number of new products every year and prefer to spread these presentations throughout the year rather than presenting everything at a fixed time in spring. In addition, our approach allows us to respond more directly and better to individual markets.

"Because elegance also has the quality of being timeless - if you understand the concept correctly."

What does "Elegance is an Attitude" mean to the Longines brand and how is it expressed in the collection? Is elegance something that has meaning in the world and in fashion? What market share would "elegance" have at all?

Longines is one of the few watch brands with a long history in ladies' watches, dating back well over 100 years. The typical Longines style, which is also decisive for the men's watches, is always characterised by elegance and purist design. Because elegance also has the quality of being timeless - if you understand the concept correctly.

In addition, there is a conceptual elegance: Longines has often sought the more elegant solution with constructive effort. For example, in the Conquest models from the 1960s, the power reserve is indicated by rotating discs instead of a simple hand. This is more elaborate, but also much more elegant. Or the many rectangular watches that Longines produced from the 1910s onwards: Under the dial, there is often also a rectangular form movement. That's elegance from within, so to speak. 

"Prominent people include early aviation pioneers such as Amelia Earhart, Amy Johnson, Howard Hughes, Wiley Post, Walter Mittelholzer and Clyde Pangborn."

Can you name personalities who own or have owned a Longines, or is this secret?

Prominent people include early aviation pioneers such as Amelia Earhart, Amy Johnson, Howard Hughes, Wiley Post, Walter Mittelholzer and Clyde Pangborn. They all made historic first flights, crossed the Atlantic or the Pacific, or flew around the world. Longines watches served them as precise navigational instruments. Richard Byrd (USA) and Paul-Emile Victor (France) made a name for themselves as polar explorers and always relied on their Longines watches in the cold of the eternal ice. Auguste and Jacques Piccard set new standards in their explorations of the deep sea. Longines timepieces served in the cockpit of their submarine and on Jacques Piccard's wrist. Albert Einstein, the most important physicist of the 20th century, also used a Longines wristwatch and pocket watch to tell the time. Renowned film producers Walt Disney and Jack Warner were among the illustrious ranks of Longines owners, as were film actors Humphrey Bogart and Yves Montand and legendary pop star David Bowie.

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