Daniel Kalt, author, fashion expert as well as editor-in-chief of Schaufenster, the lifestyle and culture supplement of the daily newspaper Die Presse, decodes the fashion codes of politicians in his new book „Staat Tragen. Über das Verhältnis von Mode und Politik“. Even if you are not interested in fashion, the book is incredibly entertaining, which is due to the author's writing style and the unearthed treasures of anecdotes and quotes from the powerful.

In his analysis, he begins with Niccolò Machiavelli, who as early as 1513 in his "Il Principe" observed, "Everyone can see what you seem to be, few will check who you are." Daniel Kalt calls this Visual Politics, a principle of action, the turn to images, the so-called Visual or Iconic Turn. "The good - or at least credible - visual impression counts, and that is why it is easier to make politics with images than with words or actions that will eventually follow."

His book is about politicians who were elected to office in democratic societies, less about monarchs and not so much about first ladies and first gentlemen. The latter are rather intended for the arena of representation, including the choice of dress. Nevertheless, Melania Trump's military green parka faux pas "I Really Don't Care, Do You?", which she wore to a shelter for migrant families in Texas in 2018, is of course also mentioned. Some readers may remember "bandana berlusconiana", the cloth bandana with which the then prime minister of Italy was seen in Sardinia during a weekend when Tony Blair visited him for informal talks at his summer residence. 

18 April 2023

Interview Directory 

FASHION, BOOKS

Name: Daniel Kalt

Occupation: Employed as an editor at the daily newspaper Die Presse since 2010, he was appointed deputy editor-in-chief of the weekend supplement Schaufenster in 2012. In 2014 he became Schaufenster editor-in-chief.  In 2013 he conceived the biannual culture magazine of Die Presse and the biannual trend special issue of Schaufenster magazine

New book: „Staat Tragen. Über das Verhältnis von Mode und Politik“

Location: Zürich

"What is important for politicians is that their choice of clothes is part of a conscious, successful communication strategy."

Can you summarise the dress code of German politicians for the readers? 

Politicians in German-speaking countries are undoubtedly more restrained when it comes to dress than their colleagues in France or Germany, for example. Even a fashion spectacle like the one at Joe Biden's swearing-in ceremony as US president would probably be unthinkable in Germany or Austria. In this way, the way public officials deal with clothing also reflects the importance of fashion in these countries as a whole.

How does the clothing style of German politicians differ from that of international politicians?

The approach to clothing as part of visual communication is undoubtedly more cautious, even though there are isolated exceptions in Germany and Austria that indicate a somewhat more spirited approach. The German Foreign Minister, for example, is currently often praised in her country for her stylish and style-conscious appearances.

Which politician do you consider to be well-dressed?

In my book, I avoid using the term "well-dressed". What is important for politicians is that their choice of clothes is part of a conscious, successful communication strategy. Angela Merkel has adopted a very good staff uniform, Donald Trump's clothes probably also correspond very well to what his voters expect from him.

Can you describe an episode from your book that particularly stuck in your memory?

I have collected a lot of examples for my book to support my efforts to create a typology. Among the so-called "fashion mishaps" that satisfy the potential schadenfreude of outsiders in a context marked by a great need for control, I think Melania Trump's bizarre "Parkagate" stands out. She wore a jacket with the words "I really don't care" on the back when she visited refugee families, which is neither understandable nor comprehensible. I found the approach of Madeleine Albright amusing, who as US Secretary of State adopted her own brooch language to react to concrete situations.

What can readers take away from your book to help them in their professional lives?

I think it depends on the profession - politicians, if they read the book, or people who work as consultants will hopefully have known beforehand that their clothing is an important part of visual communication.

What are you wearing right now?

I prefer to keep that to myself. In the author's photo in the book, which can also be seen in the magazine I edit, I am wearing a white shirt, no tie, a velvet jacket: informal in a certain classical sense, but all the more formal for it.

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"Of course I am obstinate in defending our liberties and our law. This is why I carry a big handbag." 

Margaret Thatcher 

"Actually, of course, [a shiny facial skin] is irrelevant to what you say, but it just changes people's perception. If you look very awkward, it kind of devalues the content as well." 

Sahra Wagenknecht 

"The trainers were embarrassing." 

Joschka Fischer 

"My trainers are not disrespectful." 

Wolfgang Mückstein

„Staat Tragen. Über das Verhältnis von Mode und Politik“ © Kremayr & Scheriau Publishers

„Staat Tragen. Über das Verhältnis von Mode und Politik“ © Kremayr & Scheriau Publishers